Thursday, 19 December 2013

Cad and the Dandy three-piece: the finished article

I realise that I never quite did a post on the finished Cad and the Dandy three-piece suit. Despite the fact that it has been complete since late August, and I have worn it on numerous occasions since then, I was lacking in any decent photos of it and this has made me hold off on doing the blog post. Alas I am still lacking in decent photos but I think it's silly to hold off any longer, so here is the finished article as good as I can get it. I apologise for the dreadful quality of the photos!


The suit is, as I fully expected, utterly beautiful. There's nothing quite like a handcrafted suit, totally unique, and made precisely to your own specifications. I love the look of three-piece suits, and this is a perfect combination of a cloth and cut that is conservative enough not to draw undue attention, but unusual enough to be interesting and clearly bespoke. It's seen use at a wedding, at work meetings, and at numerous semi-formal dinners at clubs and smart restaurants. It fits all these tasks perfectly, and always attracts a nice comment along the lines of being smart and well-cut, but not 'dandy', 'dapper' or 'snappy'. None of which, by the way, are bad things if that's what you're after, they're just not quite what I was looking for with this suit.



I think, over the last few posts about this suit, I've covered off almost everything that needs saying, so at this point I'll just finish up with a couple more photos. The lines of the waistcoat are beautiful, and well worth a look - you may recall that the lapels were hand-drawn on the basted cut by Phillipa. That tie, incidentally, is a very purchase from Gieves and Hawkes which I am very pleased with - I have a tendency to almost exclusively wear school, club and society ties, and am lacking in good ordinary ties. This was an attempt to redress that balance, and I think it's turned out rather well.


10 comments:

  1. Absolutely love that lining.

    Excellent suit, you have my hearty congratulations.

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    1. Thank you! Yes, I'm very keen on the lining. It's particularly fun on the waistcoat back.

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    2. This may be explained in an earlier post so forgive me, but what is the difference between the "fully bespoke" service Cad and the Dandy are offering and that on offer at the more traditional Savile Row outfits?

      Cad and the Dandy still come in considerably cheaper than the likes of Anderson & Sheppard et al, so I'm assuming there's some difference in construction or quality?

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    3. A good question, and one I've mused on myself, as I'm not totally sure how they manage the price difference. A fully bespoke suit from Cad and the Dandy will involve you being measured by an expert, a personal paper pattern drafted, the cloth cut by hand, a basted fitting, a forward fitting, and the suit entirely made by hand in London by the same coatmakers that work elsewhere on Savile Row. It will be made from the same cloth (depending what you choose) and with essentially the same construction.

      Here are a few theories I have that may contribute to the lower prices, but they are only my opinions and some or all may be quite untrue.
      - their cutters don't see all customers, meaning that initial measurements will often be taken by someone who is trained to take measurements, but not necessarily an experienced tailor (and therefore, presumably, on a lower salary).
      - There is likely to be only one basted fitting. Some of the old-school tailors will offer two or even three, particularly if you are a first-time customer and they haven't quite figured out all the intricacies of how to get a good fit. Each basted fitting requires essentially making the coat and then taking it apart again, so adds significant time and cost.
      - Their business model is supported well by a healthy trade in the lower-end made-to-measure suits and, increasingly, other accessories. I suspect they don't rely on their bespoke service to bring money in quite as much as other tailors do.
      - They're extremely busy, seeing a lot of customers and making a lot of suits, and I am sure manage to get economies of scale as a result.
      - It's possible they use cheaper coatmakers. I really don't know if this is true, as the person who actually *makes* your suit is rarely at all front-of-house. I'm told (and I am sure it's true) that they are all ex-employees of other tailors, and highly skilled. But that description legitimately includes both, say, a former head-coatmaker at Anderson and Shepherd with 20 years experience, and a former apprentice coatmaker who did a two year stint there before being snapped up by C&tD.

      My personal opinion is that the quality and craftsmanship at C&tD is excellent, especially for the price. Is it as good as a suit that costs twice as much? Perhaps not, but it's not far off, and the difference is starting to get down to the more minor intangible things like whether you are measured by your cutter, how many basted fittings you get, and so forth.

      Does that help?

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    4. Hugely. Thanks for taking the time to write such a lengthy and well considered reply.

      As you say, I think there's probably an element of 'stack em' high, sell em cheap' at play here. I guess the price also reflects the fact that their brand doesn't carry the same degree of prestige as that of some of the old school Savile Row houses.

      However they do it, they certainly seem to do it well. Hopefully they'll think about pushing out into the provinces sometime soon!

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    5. Gentlemen,

      Firstly, permit me to join the conversation and say that you really have done marvellously there Jake; the suit is extremely handsome - the glencheck with the Dugdale's lining is lovely, and the lines are very elegant. I did just want to add that I believe that even the Fully Handmade service is produced in China. I believe that the pattern is cut in London, before the baste is made in China, sent back for a fitting, and then returned to China to make-up the finished product. Minor alterations can then be made in London too.

      I may have that wrong though, but I've got a fitting on Friday so I shall check and report back.

      Kind regards, as ever.

      Aleks

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    6. Hi Aleks,

      Thanks for the kind words, I'm pleased you like it.

      I'm pretty confident that the bespoke suits are made in London, using Savile Row coatmakers. Indeed, when you visit the C&tD Savile Row premises you will see that they have a whole room set up to do the production, with suits in various stages.

      How did your fitting go on Friday?

      Jake

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    7. Jake,

      You are quite right, I got myself confused. I checked and it the fully hand made are all made in London. Apologies.

      My fitting was great thanks, I've since collected the finished suit and I'm thrilled with it. Stay tuned for a review...

      How have you enjoyed wearing yours in?

      Best wishes,

      Aleks

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  2. A very nice suit.

    Once again, I'm struck by your obvious good taste - since it bears such strong similarities to the made to measure three piece suit I had made! I think mine turned out pretty well too.

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    1. Then I can only assume you are an extremely stylish Gentleman! Glad to hear yours turned out well, and I hope you find many an opportunity to wear it over the festive season.

      Merry Christmas to you!

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